our favorite European cities is Burgos, Spain
Posted on Jul 02, 2013 by
One of our favorite European cities is Burgos, Spain.
For us it was all you are looking for. The Kingdom of Castile was born in Burgos. IT is genteel and quite pleasant medium size town, the Arlanzon River cuts it in two, it has its beautiful Paseo de Espolon, tons of history, a magnificent Gothic Cathedral and many near by fascinating places to visit.
I have read someplace that Burgos contains "one of the greatest collections of Gothic art and monuments in southern Europe"....true or not it was a wonderful city to visit.
We were there this year in March (second visit), found a real bargain : a four star hotel, very Spanish, smallish, well located. It is the Conde Fernan Gonzalez Hotel, part of the Sol Melia group, a boutique hotel. With the Mas Pass that gives you a free breakfast when you pay one, it was 69 euros for a double w/b. The most amazing thing was the meals offered in its plush restaurant , favored by lots of locals, there a full meal, three courses, a bottle of Toro wine from the owner`s vineyard, plus agua mineral, excellent cuisine, was unbelievably 13 euros p/p. This was really amazing since a few tapas would amount to the same amount in any other place. It was offered lunch and dinner. This offer of course is the MENU fijo del dia. In the same hotel, if you asked for tapas in the bar and a few drinks it was more.
The breakfast was one of the best in Spain. Always with an entire salmon on the table and "everything else".
Burgos was an important stop in the Camino de Santiago. Having said this you can imagine all the little beautiful churches in Burgos. The have a great museum in town called I think , I am not sure, Museo de Burgos it is around the hotel. Excellent. But of course the piece the resistance, is the duo of the Monasterio de las Huelgas, with its out of this world Museo de Ricas Telas, and the Cartuja de Miraflores .In the Cartuja the great master piece of Gil de Siloe, the tomb of Juan II and Isabel de Portugal the parents of Queen Isabel of Spain has been recently renovated. You need transportation to get there from the hotel.
On the other hand las Huelgas can be reached by foot. It is a long walk, but we walked and enjoyed it. They have good buses to take you around.
Is a quiet town, elegant usually with cold weather, but we were extremely lucky being early March it was fine. As I said we did long walks.
Near Burgos there are amazing places to visit, I can point out a couple, The Monasterio de Santo Domingo de Silos, with its X and + century cloister, in the church you can listen to Gregorian masses sang by the priests, Silos itself is a charming tiny town, also Covarrubias one the oldest medieval towns in Spain, ideal for a day visit and there you can have lunch in an old inn where Garcia Lorca used to stay. (If you wish I can look for the name of the place, great food.)
Of course there are many places around Burgos that we did not visit since the choice is enormous. We actually stayed in Lerma in the Parador, and Lerma in itself is worth a visit. The Local Tourist Office , as I noticed in most Spanish cities, offers a walking tour of the town for a few euros. They are very interesting, in this case, we were the only two. Our full itinerary, that we enjoyed a lot, was, train to Burgos from Madrid, five days there, the last day we got a car , drove to Lerma, 2 days there from Lerma we visited Covarrubias and Santo Domingo. Then we drove to Villadolid, 2 days, then to Tordesillas 2 days,in the Parador, from there we visited several places like Medina del Campo, Toro, and then four days in Salamanca, turn in car and took train to Madrid.
Frankly I am thinking of going back to Burgos asap. That means when the euro becomes potable again.